Cote du Rhone
Food & Wine Edition, Part I
More than likely, I will post multiple entries on this subject near and dear to my heart : gustation.
In addition to my actual classes (where drinking wine is, at least, frowned upon), I am engaged in a class of degustation de vin. The course is divided into four sections, or regions: Cotes du Rhone, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and last but not least, Champagne, starting with the foremost.
Our first wine was the odd man out by region, but certainly agreeable in taste, a 2001 Savennieres Domaine Roche aux Moines. Hailing from the Loire Valley, this white pressed from chenin blanc is flavored with quince and pear. Its fruit and balanced acidity render this wine as elegant as the crown-embossed, Anjou-style bottle from which it flows.
Next up, we met the “Queen of Cote de Rhone,” the very light and feminine Cote Rotie. This red made entirely from syrah has a floral nose attributable to the violets added to its French oak barrels. However, our 2002 had not yet peaked, to quote our professor Joel Corre, it was “criminal to drink before 10 years.” So much for my clean record.
How better to follow the Queen than by her King, Chateauneuf du Pape. Crème of the crop, the Cuvee du Baron LeRoy is exactly what you want to spend your winters drinking. I can think of quite a few hunters back home who would be overjoyed to pair this spicy, rustic red with their freshly-chased game. After a few mouthfuls (because tasting wine takes more gumption than sipping), its ruby red color becomes mesmerizing.
In natural succession, dessert is next. You certainly could enjoy this with a crème brulee or caramel tart, but Baumes de Venise is enough to satisfy your sweet tooth without outside help. The makers of this Muscat, Domaine des Bernardins, ensure it by adding extra sugar.
Chablis & Mussels with a white wine saffron sauce
Fortunately for me, these wines, and the amazing meals I’ve been eating, fall into my student budget, thanks to my program for setting up the degustation class, and my host mother for her delicious cuisine. Every dinner consists of an entrée (appetizer), a plat (entrée), salad, cheese, ending with fruit or a gateau on special occasions. Here’s a glimpse into Colette’s kitchen.
In no particular order, my favorite dishes topping the list are as follows. Meat/poultry : osso bucco with a rich tomato base, scooping out the slippery marrow to place atop warm baguette, and glazed chicken baked with sugared apricots and caramelized onions. Mediterranean seafood : mussels in a buttery, white wine, saffron sauce (right), and calamari sautéed in white wine and cognac, which I can proudly say I helped prepare, as evidenced by my ink-stained nails the following week.
As our gorgeous provencal weather has cooled into autumn, soups have become a staple. Previously finding them either bland or overly concentrated (of course Mama, your crab bisque is the exception), now I become disappointed if I don’t find a bowl atop my Limoge plate. [I will admit one of my favorite things about eating soup is revealing the beautiful Havilland pattern hidden at the bottom.] My favorite soupe quotidienne remains soupe de courgette (zucchini); although, one evening, Colette prepared ceppe soup with pâté de canard and truffle oil, which I declared I would be ecstatic eating for the rest of my life.
To conclude this first edition of food & wine, I will add, as a side note, that I have taken up running at least 3 times a week.
Next time: my very own Peter Mayle story–the Crumps visit the Luberon.
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